Ashadhi Ekadashi or Devashayani Ekadashi, as it is also called, is one of the most significant religious festivals in Maharashtra. This year it falls on 1st July. But with the prevalent pandemic situation, celebrations are to be very low key. The famed Wari procession will not take place on foot as usual and only a select few warkaris will be allowed into the temple with the padukas of the saints, which will be taken by road or air.
On this festive occasion, I would like to share an excerpt from my book "Temples in Maharashtra-A Travel Guide"
"The mention of Pandharpur brings to our mind vivid images of the turban
or topi clad Warkari holding tals in his hands and singing abhangs (sacred
hymns composed by the great saints like Gyaneshwar or Tukaram) with joyous
abandon and devotion, walking towards his Lord Vittala in complete surrender.
No wonder then, that Pandharpur is considered by many as the holiest place in
Maharashtra, the Bhu-Vaikuntam.
This is the place where Lord Vittala stands
on bricks with hands held on hip, waiting for his beloved devotee, Pundalik, to
finish his chores for his parents and turn towards the Lord so that he can be
blessed, the place where the Lord Vittala and his devotee, (Warkari), cannot be
separated.
Pandharpur, located approximately 365 kms. from Mumbai and 215 kms.
from Pune, is best accessed from Solapur which is 74 kms. away and has good
stay options. The road is well maintained and buses are available every fifteen
minutes. As you enter the ancient temple town, picturesquely positioned on the
banks of the river Chandrabhaga, you attention never wavers from the Vittala
temple. The temple is believed to be more than 2000 years old. Traditionally,
one is supposed to have a dip in the holy waters of the Chandrabhaga, have
darshan at the Pundalik temple and worship the devotee before the Lord.
Hence the main eastern entrance faces the Pundalik temple on the banks of
the crescent shaped river. It is lined with shops selling flowers, bukka and puja
materials, and one is approached by many who wish to guide you for a fee.
The
entrance to the sanctum santorum is through the Namdev Gate, in respect to
the great Marathi poet and devotee, Sant Namdev. There are twelve steps and
the first one has the figure of Namdev with a tambourine in his hand singing a
kirtan, and fourteen members of his family carved on it. There is also a bust of
94 Namdev to the side of the step. It is said that when Namdev took Samadhi, the
rest of the fourteen members drowned themselves. This step, called Namdev
payari, is considered the samadi of Namdev. Hence devotees worship it, cross
it without setting their foot on it. Generally the pujari here is from Namdev’s
Shimpi community and the offerings go to the Badaves or the hereditary priests
of Vithoba.
Near the entrance we find the Samadhi of Chokamela, a great devotee of
the Lord. Chokamela was from the Mahar community, who in those times
were considered outcasts and not allowed inside the temple. He was termed
mad by the people because he used to always be in ecstacy singing, dancing
and conversing with his Vithobha. The Lord loved him and used to converse
with him everyday. The story goes that while the Lord was having lunch at
Chokamela’s house, one day, curd fell on his vastra. It was neivedya time at
the temple and the priest was stunned to see curd on the vastra of the Lord.
When he came to know the truth, the temple priest apologised profusely to
Chokamela.
The Darshan Mandap which can accommodate the huge gathering of
varkaris during the Ashadi and Karthiki Ekadashis has been built quite recently.
As we enter through the central doorway flanked by the images of Jaya and
Vijaya, the dwarpals of the Lord, we come across the Solakambh mandap
(16 pillared hall), which reveal exquisite carvings depicting scenes from the
Dashavatar and Krishna Lila on the roof. All the pillars exhibit artistic carvings
while the back one encased in silver and bearing the image of Lord Vishnu,
is known as the Garuda Stambha (the place where the statue of Garuda was
supposed to standing before the mandap was built.) The devotees traditionally
embrace the Garuda stambha and make offerings before praying to Lord
Vittala. We were shown an inscription carved on a block of stone, listing the
donors to the temple in the 12th century. Devotees used to rub their backs on
this inscription in the belief that they would be relieved from their sins and
rebirth.
As one enters the sanctum, the eyes are magnetically drawn to the highly
revered black stone image of Lord Vittala standing on a brick shaped square
block with the arms, holding a shankh in the left and a lotus in the right, resting
on the hip. This is believed to be the brick that his devotee Pundalik offered to him as an asana. The crown or mukut of the Lord has a Shivlinga engraved
on it, and the ears are adorned with makara kundalas and the chest with the
Kausthubha gem. The deity is believed to be swayambu or self manifested. This
is the only shrine where devotees can touch the feet (sparsh) and seek blessings.
Behind the main shrine is a separate shrine to Goddess Rukhmani or
Rakhumai as she is called here. The beautiful black stone image of the Goddess
is dressed in typical Maharashtrian style and is adorned with many ornaments.
There are shrines to Satyabhama and Rahi (Radha) too.
There are stories and legends galore about this temple and the presence
of Vithoba in Pandarpur and his devotees, the most important one being that
of Pundalik or Pundarik who is credited with having brought Lord Vittala
to this land. Pundalik was initially a self centred man who care for nothing
except his own pleasure. He neglected his aged parents. But he agreed to take
them to Kashi, albeit on foot, while he and his wife rode on horses. On the way
came across an ashram of Rishi Kukkut, who welcomed him and took good
care of him. Pundalik could not sleep that night. He witnessed the remarkable
sight of three young women in dirty clothes enter the Rishi’s ashram and
started doing cleaning jobs. They then went to the prayer hall and when they re-emerged they were spotlessly clean. When asked about this miracle, the three
women mentioned that they were Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswathy. They were
burdened with the sins and impurity of all the thousands of people who took
a dip in their waters to absolve their sins. But they were purified by serving
the Rishi, who adored and took great care of his aged parents. Transformed
by this conversation Pundalik began caring for his parents to the exclusion
of everything. Pleased with his devotion to his parents, Lord Krishna came
here to bless him. When the Lord called out to Pundalik he was serving his
parents. So he threw a brick (veet in Marathi) to the Lord to wait. Probably
the name Vittala originated from this veet. The Lord stood on the brick with
his hands resting on his hip and waited till Pundalik finished his chores for his
parents. The Lord still stands, but now He waits for all the scores of devotees
who surrender to Him.
Another mythological legend, according to the Padma Purana and the
Panduranga Mahatmya, says that Krishna and Radha were inseparable during
their childhood. Rukmini Devi also knew about this. Once when Radharani
met Sri Krishna at Dwaraka, their intimacy upset Rukmini Devi, who
silently left to do penance in Dindirvana to win back her husband. The Lord
immediately went in search of her to ask for forgiveness, but the Goddess, deep
in penance, did not even recognise his presence. Sri Krishna then went to see
his devotee Pundalik in Pandharpur. Later, after her anger and distress had
abated, Rukmini Devi joined her husband to bless the devotee.
Apart from Pundalik, the primary devotee who was instrumental in the
presence of the Lord Vittala at Pandharpur, Sant Dyaneshwar who is credited
with starting the Wari tradition, Sant Namdeo, Sant Tukaram, Janabai and
many others have composed and sung verses (abhangs) in praise of the Lord,
which are being sung with great devotion even today.
Temple Timings
The temple opens for darshan at 6.00 am to 11.00 am, from 11.15 to 4.30
pm and 5.00 pm to 11.15 pm (Darshan remains closed during 11.00 am to 11.15 am for Mahanaivedya, 4.30 pm to 5.00 pm for Poshakh, and 5.00 pm
to 11.15 pm)
Every day is a festival and every Ekadashi a fast at Pandharpur. But the Ashadi
and Karthiki Ekadashis are special when a huge congregation of devotees
gather at the temple to have a darshan of their beloved Lord Vittala. The temple
is open for twenty hours on these days, as the Lord remains awake to bless his
devotees. The deity is bathed and dressed in new clothes the day after and fed
a different diet with sugar and spice, as it is assumed that the Lord is tired after
the long day.
Apart from the Ekadashis, the festival of Navarathri is celebrated with
great fervour. The deities are adorned with beautiful new clothes and fine gold
jewellery studded with brilliant gems of various colours.
The Wari tradition and the Warkari: The depth of emotion and spiritual
fervour marking the largest procession in the world is unbelievable. The eight
centuries old tradition of wari is a journey on foot to the abode of the Lord
Vittal at Pandharpur that the devotee or warkari undertakes again and again.
Lakhs of warkaris gather at different venues across the country and carry the
padukas (wooden or silver footwear) of Sant. Dnyaneshwar, Sant Tukaram,
Sant Eknath or Sant Eknath in palkis (palanquins), and start their journey to
the reverberating sound of hundreds of drums, mridangas, cymbals etc. The
largest congregation is at the start of the procession accompanying the palki
carrying the padukas of Sant Dnyaneshwar, who is credited with starting the
wari tradition, from his birthplace Alandi. Another big procession is from
Dehu carrying the Tukaram Padukas. The starting day of the wari may be
different depending on the distance to Pandarpur, but the concluding day is the
same, the day before Ashadhi Ekadashi, when warkaris coming from various
cities and direction meet on the banks of the Chandrabhaga spreading love
and devotion in the air and chanting the holy abhangas in gay abandon. En
route to Pandharpur, the wari halts at various places and the locals of that place
welcome the warkaris with some special food and delicacies. Medical aid is
provided to those who require it, at most halts free of charge.
The dindi system is followed to avoid chaos or missing persons. Each dindi
comprises of a number of warkaris, generally from the same locality, carrying
combined essential rations, clothing and medicines in a truck or a trolley, and
they group together wherever they halt. Usually they have some abhang singers
and cymbal players. All the dindis in a particular wari assemble for the evening
aarti conducted by their palki chief. On reaching Chandrabhaga river, they take
a dip in the holy waters. The excitement of the warkaris reaches its crescendo
when they first sight the flag atop the main Vithobha Mandir and they rush
forward in unison to catch a glimpse of their favourite Lord. That is the climax.
The moment they are face to face with the Lord and feel his benevolent gaze
blessing them for ever and ever."
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