Saturday, September 28, 2019

5 States in India Celebrate #Navaratri in 5 different ways #Festival 3




Are the strains of music wafting in the air? Are you waiting to dazzle the gathering with colourful costumes?
Yes. Navaratri, the annual festival, an eclectic mix of religious fervor and enjoyment is here again. The brilliant colours of rangoli, the traditional costumes, rhythmic clap of dandiya sticks, the artistic doll displays, the delectable bhog offerings and the devotion of the devotees mark this beautiful nine day festival. Navaratri is synonymous with the worship of the nine forms of Maa Durga, namely Shailaputri, Brahmacharini, Chandraghanta, Kushmanda, Skandamata, Katyayani, Kalaratri,  Mahagauri, and Siddhidatri.  The festival culminates on the tenth day of Vijaya Dashami. 
Want to know how the festival is celebrated in different ways under different names in different parts of India? Read on.




The world famous Durga Puja, the main festival of the year in Kolkota comes to mind as soon as you think of Navaratri. Bengalis come out bedecked in their glorious red saris and finest jewellery to participate in their puja pandals. However, the puja is not confined to Kolkota alone. It is celebrated throughout the eastern States of West Bengal, Assam, Odisha and Bihar, though the celebrations in Kolkota is akin to the Ganesh Utsav celebrations of Mumbai or Pune. Large sized idols of Goddess Durga on her vahan, the lion, with her trident aimed at the dreaded demon Mahishasur are installed in beautifully decorated pandals to the beats of dhol, dhak and dhunuchi naach, and the celebrations are open to the public on the last four days of Navaratri  (Saptami, Ashtami, Navami and Dashami.)There are some unique rituals associated with the Durga Puja. The idols are sculpted and made ready before Navaratri begins, but the eyes are not painted till Mahalaya. This is the day that the Goddess is invited on earth and the eyes are drawn on this day in an auspicious ritual called Chokku Daan, in the belief that the Goddess will descend to earth to give her blessings to her devotees. And the bhog offered to Maa Durga includes sweets like naru, kheer, payesh, malpua, patishapta, chandrapuli and goja. Interestingly I have not seen rosogolla (my favourite sweet) being offered to the Goddess or am I mistaken?


We mention Navaratri in Gujarat and what does one visualise! The eruption of colours in the form women clad in decoratively embroidered chania cholis and men in their traditional coloured pyjamas and short kurtas, twirling around the garbo, an earthenware pot beautifully decorated with shining mirrors and holes. Betel leaves, betelnuts, coconut and coins are placed in this garbo and the image of the Goddess along with the garbo forms the focal point of the ras garba or dandiya ras.  The rhythmic beat of music resonates throughout the night sometimes as the people lose themselves to the waves of spirituality. Every village, every town and every city in Gujarat has its own garba. Vadodara, the cultural capital of Gujarat boasts of huge dandiya events both traditional and modern or a fusion of both.  Another significant tradition exists where the villagers pay tribute to the monsoon harvest and fertility by setting up a mound-like structure with fresh soil into which food grains are painstakingly sown. This mound of soil is nurtured and watered regularly for all the nine days. The nine days of Navaratri are divided into three parts. The first three days are devoted to Durga Mata, the Goddess of strength, the next three days to Mata Mahalakshmi, the Goddess of wealth, and the last three days to Mata Saraswathi, the Goddess of learning. On the ninth day (Navami) a puja called kanya puja is performed where nine young girls are worshipped as the nine forms of Goddess Durga. The euphoria of the festival reaches its crescendo on the tenth day which is considered to be most auspicious for buying new things. The devotees who fast through the nine days break their fast with the Kanya puja on Navami and gorge on their favourite jalebi and fafdi along with other delicacies on Dashami day.

Move down South and one finds an attractive display of dolls decoratively arranged on steps. This is called Bommai Kolu in Tamil Nadu, Bommala Koluvu in Telengana and Andhra Pradesh and Bombe Habba in Karnataka. Bomma Kolu means divine presence, Bomma Koluvu means court of toys and Bombe Habba means doll festival. An odd number of steps three, five, seven or (most commonly) nine steps are decorated and dolls are neatly arranged. The nine steps are for the nine forms of the Goddess. A beautifully decorated kalash with fresh water, mango leaves and coconut, representing Goddess Durga, is kept in the centre of the topmost shelf. Dolls depicting Gods and Goddesses are placed on both sides of the kalash, as well as the top shelves. Some people arrange the dolls in a thematic fashion to relate stories from the epics of Ramayana and Mahabharata. Next in line are the holy Saints. Then on the lower shelves, representations of daily life like farming, business, marriage, functions are creatively showcased. All through the nine days, devotional songs, hymns, slokas are sung or recited in praise of the supreme Goddess and neivedyam of sweets and sundal are offered. Married women are invited for “ Manjal kumkumam and vethalai pakku.”Though the artistic Kolu is kept for all the nine days, some keep it during the last three days of Navaratri. The ninth day of Navaratri is dedicated to the worship of Goddess Saraswathi and is called Saraswathi Puja, when puja to an arrangement of books, musical instruments are offered. The tenth day is Vijayadashami and children are initiated into learning for the first time (Vidyarambham). It is believed that anything you start on this day is bound to achieve success. On the day of Dashami, the dolls of the Kolu are symbolically put to sleep signaling the end of the festival.




Navaratri is celebrated with Mata ki chowki and jagrans in the northern states of Punjab, Haryana and UP. Devotees generally observe fast (Vrat) on the first seven days, while some observe fast for the entire nine days. They organize and attend jagrans to pay obeisance to the Devi, when the entire night is spent is singing devotional songs and praying to Mata Durga. In many parts of North India, the staging of Ramlila is organized. On the tenth day, Dashami, an effigy of Ravana is burnt, signaling the victory of Lord Ram over Ravana. Of special note is the celebration of the world famous Kullu Dusshera. In Kullu, also known as the valley of Gods, Dusshera festival starts when the celebrations in other parts of the country end.  Dussehra in Kullu valley is a week-long festival starts with a procession of Lord Raghunath, along with other deities, carried on a Ratha across the town. The village Gods and minor deities also participate in this celebration. The entire region comes alive when the procession reaches the Dhalpur maidan, which is the centre of the colourful festivities, which include dance, music, cultural events and food.

In Maharashtra, the Navaratri celebrations are highly spiritual and personal. A ritual called Ghatasthapana is performed on the first day, when a small earthen pot with water is placed in the centre of a container filled with mud. This pot symbolizes Durga Mata. Grains are sown in the mud soil around the pot and religiously watered and allowed to sprout. For nine days this pot is worshipped with offerings of fruits and flowers amidst various rituals.  Married women are invited for Haldi Kumkum to obtain their blessings for soumangalya. They are offered flowers to adorn their hair, bangles, and betel leaves, betel nut and coconut along with the haldi kumkum. On the eighth day of Ashtami, a havan (yagna) is performed for the Goddess to obtain her blessings. On Dashami, they collect the sona (gold) leaves of the Apta tree, visit relatives and friends and offer the sonpatha to everyone and take blessings from the elderly. Dashami is also the day for initiation into learning for children and this is called Vidhyarambham. This ritual is similar to the Vidyarambham of South India.

#Dusshera #Navaratri  #Durgapuja #Garba #dandiya #Jagran #haldikumkum #Bommakolu #Bommalakoluvu #Bombehabba #Rasgarba

Sunday, September 8, 2019

#Kerala celebrates the return of Mahabali Chakravarthy with the #Onam Festival that includes #Pookalams, #OnamSadhya, #Vallam Kali and #Onakazhcha #Festival 2

At the outset I would like to wish everyone a very happy Onam.
Keralites all over the world wait for this magnificent festival of Onam to celebrate the annual visit of their beloved King Mahabali Chakravarthy also lovingly called Maveli. Everywhere, we can find Onam Sadhyas being served on banana leaves in a traditional way and colourful pookalams decorating  the entrances of houses.
Here is an excerpt from my book Kerala the Divine Destination on this festival.

'Kerala is synonymous with its most important festival, Onam , which is celebrated in the beginning of the month of Chingam, the first month of Malayalam Calendar, corresponding to the months of August-September. There is a festival atmosphere around the whole region, with each house having a pookalam, a floral rangoli adorning its portico. 

Come dawn and the mist is driven away by the first rays of the sun revealing a kaleidoscope of colours in each pookalam. Simple yet stunning, it’s floral magnificence captures the spirit of the land, the joy and merriment associated with the festival of the season  The making of the pookalam starts on the auspicious day of hastham (attam). Every day more and more intricate designs are added for a period of ten   days culminating in a huge magnificent floral carpet on the final day of Thiru Onam. Preparations for the festival also start on this Attam day.

Houses are cleaned, pickles are prepared, and everyone is involved in the festivities. In villages, people prepare swings hung between the boughs of two big trees and decorate it with flowers allowing for the entire span of ten days to be spent in joy and playfulness by the kids of the houses. The joint family system, or the Tharawad as it is popularly known, still prevails in most parts of Kerala. On Utharadam, the day prior to Onam, the members and dependants of the tharawad present the produce of their farms consisting of vegetables, fruits coconuts and three varieties of plantains to the Head of the Tharawad, generally the eldest person in the family. This is known as onakazhcha. 

In return, he presents them with a sumptuous feast. Utharadam is followed by the most important day of the festival, the Thiru onam.  

Legend has it that the great King Mahabali visits his subjects once in a year. Mahabali belonged to the Asura clan but was an ardent worshiper of Lord Vishnu. His bravery and strength of character earned him the title of "Mahabali Chakravathy" or Mahabali - the King of Kings. It is said that there was no poverty, sorrow or disease in the reign of King Mahabali and everybody was happy and content. At the request of the Gods, who were worried about the king’s growing strength and popularity, Lord Vishnu assumed the Vamana avathar, that of a poor Brahmin, and approached King Mahabali for a gift of a piece of land. The King who was known for his generosity did not disappoint, and requested the Brahmin to take as much land as he wanted. The Brahmin however had a strange request. He wanted land that would cover his three steps. Startled, the king agreed.  The Guru of Asuras, Shukracharya, recognizing the divine presence of Lord Vishnu, tried to prevent the King but in vain and lost one of his eyes in the process.Vamana, the Brahmin, began to expand and eventually increased himself to the size of cosmic proportions. With his first step he covered the whole of earth and with the second he covered the whole of the skies. He then asked King Mahabali for place to keep his third foot. The King realised that he was no ordinary Brahmin and so with folded hands and bowed head asked him to place his last step on his head so that he could keep the promise. The Brahmin placed his foot on the head of the King, which pushed him to patala, the nether world. There the King requested the Brahmin to reveal his true identity. Lord Vishnu then appeared before the king extremely pleased with his devotee’s generosity and benevolence. He asked the King to ask for a boon. The king was so attached to his subjects that he requested the Gods to allow him to visit his people for one day in a year to ensure their well being. The people of Kerala wish to show their beloved king that they are as grand and prosperous now as they were during his rule.

Rituals on the auspicious day of Thiru Onam begin as early as 4am. People wake up very early. The finishing touches and the last circle of flowers are added to the pookalam. Then they make a conical figure of clay depicting Thrikkakara Appan, Lord Vishnu in his Vamana avathar and place it in a the pride of place in the midst of the floral carpet. They decorate Thrikkakara Appan with a paste of rice flour and water, and flowers. Everyone wears new clothes or the Onapudava which are presented to them in a ceremonial manner by the head of the family. They prepare neivedyam, an offering to the God and begin their prayers.

The religious rituals are then followed by the most exciting part of the onam celebrations, the Onasadhya, the grand feast organized by each and every household. 
Traditionally the onam sadhya is served on plantain leaves in a row on a mat laid on the floor. There is a fixed order of serving the sumptuous vegetarian dishes and a set place for each dish on the leaf.  First the payasam , the sweet dish, is served on the lower right corner. Kichadi, curry, kootu, kalan, avial, and olan are served from right to left on the upper portion of the banana leaf. Then follow the pickles. The pickles are generally made of mango or lime and are served on the extreme left.  Bananas are then served on the left upper corner. The Pappads and plantain wafers known as varathupperi are served next to the pickles. After everyone is seated, rice is served. It is followed by a spoon of ghee and then sambhar. Rasam is next. The main sweet course is then served the adapradhaman and palpayasam. The meal ends with curd and rice.  It is to be noted that the entire meal is usually eaten with hand and not with spoons. The people also make it a point to offer the entire meal to Lord Ganapathi as an offering and then proceed with their own meals.

After this fabulous mouth watering meal, the youngsters seek enjoyment in games. 

There are various forms of onakalikal like Kummattikali, kaikotikali, pulikali etc. Kali means game and onakalikal means games played during Onam. The kaikotikali is a popular rhythmic group dance performed by the womenfolk of Kerala around a gorgeous pookalam with a ghee villakku (lamp) placed in the centre. 


The elderly people retire to play indoor games like chess or dice. The young men however prefer to play outdoor games like the panthukali, a ball game, or thekayyankali, a combat game or kutukutu which is similar to the nationwide popular game of kabbaddi.

The Vallamkali or the Snake Boat Race is the most enchanting facet of the festival of Onam.  The race was popularized by the first prime minister of India, Mr. Jawaharlal Nehru, who was so enchanted that he instituted a trophy for the winning boat. The event is promoted as a major tourist attraction of the state of Kerala and draws a large number of domestic and international tourists. The race is very competitive and requires great skill and balance. Even a small mistake by one of the oarsman may cause imbalance and lead to the boat overturning. This race instills a great sense of unity and team spirit amongst the participants.

Another important feature of the Onam festival is the elephant procession held in Trissur. The elephants are decorated with ornate gold caparisons on their foreheads and project a magnificent sight.

Onam in Trikkakara, a place 10 km from Kochi (Cochin) on the Edapally- Pookattupadi road, said to be the capital of the mighty King Mahabali is celebrated with great pomp and vigour. A temple with a deity of 'Trikkakara Appan' or 'Vamanamurthy' is also located at this place. The Ona sadhya is itself an offering to the Lord here. 

Onam is a festival which mirrors the cultural ethos and the unity and secular nature of the inhabitants of Kerala. The grandeur of the celebrations and the underlying faith of the people during the festival of Onam, can be actually experienced, if one takes part in the gamut of cultural activities held to mark the festivities.'

#Onam  #Maveli #MahabaliChakravarthy #OnamSadhya #Onakazhcha #VallamKali #Pookalam #Vamanamurthy #TrikkakaraAppan