MATUNGA’S
SOUTH INDIAN CONNECT
LALITHA BALASUBRAMANIAN
My association
with Matunga began when I was just a year old, and such was the predominance of
the South Indian community at that time, that this pretty central suburb was
known as mini Madras. I still reside
here, having been witness to the migration of many of these families to far
flung suburbs and the steady influx of Gujaratis and Jains in this area. Now,
the essence of the South Indian crowd is seen in the temple cluster of South
Indian origin, which include Asthika Samaj, Bhajan Samaj, Shankara Matam and
Kanyaka Parameshwari temples.
These temples do stand tall, bearing testimony to
the community’s rich contribution to Matunga’s heritage, art and culture. All
of them have beautiful gopurams with
aesthetically carved sculptures of Hindu deities.
The crowd in these temples
never abate as the people who have migrated from here make it a point to visit
from wherever they are. On festival days like Skanda Shashti, Ram Navami,
Gokulashtami, Navrathri and Shivrathri, music, dance and religious discourses
are held on a regular basis, and one can see them, be they from Kerala, Tamil
Nadu, Andhra Pradesh or Karnataka, blending together everywhere, making the
entire area a colourful festive conglomeration.
It is said that
where the South Indians are, flowers follow.
The mesmerising smell of the pure
white jasmines and roses wafts across the air, beckoning us to halt and savour
the magical sight of a row of flower stalls displaying colourful garlands of
all sizes.
These shops take orders for garlands and loose flowers for temple
deities, pujas, weddings and other occasions. Talking of weddings, there are
typical South Indian sari shops like Nallis, New Mahalakshmi, Lakshmi and
Solanki with their varied selections of the delightful Kanjivaram silk, Pochampalli
and Mysore crepe silk saris along with the crisp Coimbatore, Madurai and
Venkatagiri cotton weaves.
As for culture and
art, would there be any Mumbaikar who has not heard of the Shanmukananda
Sangeetha Vidyalaya or the Rajarajeshwari Bharata Natya Kala Mandir? These two
iconic institutions continue their contribution to the preservation and spread
of classical art forms like Carnatic music and Bharatanatyam dance. Both of
them have existed for as long as I can remember. Their students generally
graduate to becoming performing artists of high calibre.
And what’s more! The
South Indian flavour does not end here. Popular eateries like Madras Cafe,
Ramashray, Anand Bhavan, Amba Bhavan, Sharada Bhavan and Mysore Cafe dot the
suburb with their varied temptations.
The aroma of filter coffee is by itself
an invitation to savour a cup of coffee or kapi
as they call it, at any of these joints. This tempting aroma of freshly
ground coffee powder can be felt even as we touch Maheshwari Udhyan from the
generations old shop of Mysore Concerns.
In fact the shop has become so famous,
that they distribute their coffee powder to various suburbs of Mumbai by public
demand. The mouth watering and most
popular South Indian meal served at the Udupi Rama Nayak, near Matunga station,
is definitely worth a mention. Apart from the South Indians, the current
predominant population of Gujaratis and Jains relish the idlis, dosas and medhu
vadas with the generous helpings of sambhar and chutneys served at these
joints. But even with so many famous eateries in the vicinity, it behoves me to
ponder over the perennial crowds at the fast food stall near Milap and opposite
Asthika Samaj. This stall has been there since decades, and many residents
swear by the unique taste at this outlet. A year or two ago, a wayside stall by
the name Ayyappa stall, close to Shankara Matam, had many cars halt outside to
allow the passenger to get down and savour the food, while creating a traffic
jam. The roads are not too wide and with vehicles parked on both sides this is
not something to be wondered at. Fortunately for the car owners and
pedestrians, this eatery has been shifted to another place.
While speaking of
parking, there is another very unique thing about Matunga that sometimes drives
a person like me insane. Drivers of taxis, cars and tempos park even in two or
three parking lanes, with complete disregard for traffic sense, sometimes
wilfully blocking the way of others to follow. So honking is so, so, inevitable.
But, Matunga has so much going for it that one tends to overlook this obvious
flipside to the coin.
The South Indians
are a religious lot. To cater to this need of theirs, Giri Store has a whole
lot of religious books, music CDs and other puja items. In fact anything that
is necessary for a puja apart from the havan samagri can be availed of at Giri
Store. They also have a collection of brass idols. During Navratri time, there
is a virtual influx of ladies visiting the store to buy Golu dolls and haldi
Kumkum items. The dolls are on display at least a month prior to the festival. Specialised
Golu steps are also available with Giri Store on order.
The vegetable
market too exhibits a distinct South Indian tinge, with the Maharashtrian
vendors calling out in Tamil about the mangais
(mangoes) and chakkais
(jackfruit).
They are so conversant
with the South Indian festivals that they display the special items needed for
each festival with elan, be it koorkai during Thiruvadhirai or chakkai and kanikonnai
during Vishu.
Vazhai elai, thandu and vazhai poo, (banana leaf, stem and
flower), so typical of South India, is available here throughout the year.
It is interesting
to note that if any South Indian household has a function or a religious ceremony
to be held, they flock to this market for all the essential items, serving a
reminder that Matunga, the Mini-Madras of yesteryears, still retains its South
Indian connection.
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