Since
ages, a journey to the temple city of Rameshwaram has been the starting point
and culmination of the holy Kashi Yatra. Hindus believe that
their life is incomplete without undertaking this Kashi-Rameshwaram Yatra
at least once in a lifetime. We have done the yatra twice, but this time we went to Rameshwaram as part of our
pilgrimage to some important temples in Tamil Nadu. We touched down at Madurai
airport at around 11 am and proceeded directly to Rameshwaram in a cab. The
four hour long drive via Ramanathapuram, to cover the distance of approximately
174 km. was made easy by the well maintained roads, except for a small patch
where road widening work was in progress. We breezed through villages with intriguing
names like Thangachimadam (home of younger sister) and Akkamadam (home of elder
sister) and reached the Pamban Bridge, which connects the
conch shaped island of Rameshwaram to mainland India. The beautiful sight of
the bridge across the expansive blue waters of the sea drew our breath away,
and we could not but stop to get down, savour the magnificent view and take
photographs.
A view of the Pamban Railway bridge |
Panoramic view of Pamban Island |
On reaching the temple town, we were impatient to visit the magnificent Ramanathaswami temple, but the vadhyar (priest) advised us to visit the temple in the morning, after taking bath in the holy Agnitheertham and the 22 theerthams in the famous third prakaram of the temple. He also advised us to take a change of clothing as entrance into the main temple sanctum is not allowed in wet clothes.
Agnitheertham |
At
dawn, we were ready to take a dip in the Agnitheertham.
The magical allure of the deep blue sea beckoned us to step into the clean
shallow water and immerse ourselves. The taste of salt on our lips and the
light burning sensation in our eyes reminded us that this holy water is not called
Agnitheertham for nothing. An old man,
who was taking a bath alongside, told us that Hanuman had dipped his burning
tail in the sea after the epic Lankadahan and hence the burning
sensation in our eyes. I don’t know how far this is true, but it seemed to be a
logical explanation, and one which I had not heard of before. However, I have read somewhere that Lord Rama took a bath in the Agnitheertham to absolve himself of the sin of killing Ravana, who was a learned Brahmin.
We then walked towards the temple in our wet attire which dried by the time we reached the temple premises. The priest had arranged for a guide, who bought the tickets and led us to the 22 theerthams in the prescribed chronological order starting with the Mahalakshmi theertam and ending with the Koditheertham. The guide was mentioning about the significance of each theertham but in the noise and crowd, I could fathom only a few. The Koditheertham is where the Lord Sri Krishna was redeemed of the sin of killing his uncle Kamsa.
We then walked towards the temple in our wet attire which dried by the time we reached the temple premises. The priest had arranged for a guide, who bought the tickets and led us to the 22 theerthams in the prescribed chronological order starting with the Mahalakshmi theertam and ending with the Koditheertham. The guide was mentioning about the significance of each theertham but in the noise and crowd, I could fathom only a few. The Koditheertham is where the Lord Sri Krishna was redeemed of the sin of killing his uncle Kamsa.
Devotees doused in water walking along the corridor from one Theertham to another |
We
gave ourselves up to the pure joy of being doused with buckets of water from
the theerthams one by one, which
culminated in the Kodi theertham inside
the temple. The water of the theerthams varies
in taste, some sweet, some salty, some cold, some warm. This is an exhilarating experience,
definitely not to be missed by anyone who visits Rameshwaram. Apart from the 22
theerthams inside the temple, we
heard that there are supposedly 31 theerthams
in the vicinity of Rameshwaram, Navabhashanam in Ramanad and Dhanushkodi. Some
of these are well maintained, whereas others are neglected.
A view of the Gopuram from the corridor |
The
temple itself is a massive structure with a majestic gopuram, three prakarams or enclosures and a
magnificent corridor believed to be the longest temple corridor in India. The
visual impact of this famous third prakaram
is extraordinary, appearing as though the pillars are progressively shorter and
thicker, gently receding into the darkness.
The magnificent third prakaram |
The
Ramanathaswami temple is believed to be as old as the Ramayana. Legend goes
that Rama was returning from Lanka with a heavy heart as he had vanquished
Ravana, who was a great Shiva bhakt. To atone for this sin, he wanted to
worship Lord Shiva. He requested Hanuman to bring a Shivaling from Kailas. But
when the auspicious time arrived, there was no sign of Hanuman. So Sita made a
Shivaling of sand from the seashore. As Rama was completing his worship of the
Lord, Hanuman arrived with a Shivaling. Seeing the disappointment and sorrow on
Hanuman’s face, Rama instructed that the Shivaling brought by Hanuman would be
worshipped first. The Shivaling made by Sita is called Ramalingam or
Ramanathaswami, the Lord of Rama. The Shivaling brought by Hanuman is called
Vishwalingam, the Lord of the world. The practice of worshiping the
Vishwalingam before Ramalingam is still followed.
Another
story, again connected to Ramayana, says that Rama and his monkey army were
trying to build the sethu (bridge)
across the sea but failed every time, as the bridge they would construct during
the day would be destroyed by Ravana and his men during the night. It was then
that Rama was advised to worship a Shivalingam in the midst of the sea, as it was felt that Ravana being a staunch devotee of Lord Shiva, he would not destroy
a Shivaling. This is believed to have worked and Rama could build the sethu without any further hindrance.
I have also heard of an interesting folk tale about Rama searching for a learned Brahmin to perform a yagna to worship Lord Shiva, but could not find one. Vibhishana, the younger brother of Ravana, suggested that Rama send a message to Ravana as he was a learned Brahmin. It is said that Rama sent an invitation to Ravana and he not only accepted, but knowing that Rama could not perform the yagna without his wife, Ravana brought Sita Mata also along with him. After the yagna was performed when Rama and Sita sought his blessings, Ravana blessed Rama to be victorious and Sita to have a long married life. I don't know whether this is true or not, though.
I have also heard of an interesting folk tale about Rama searching for a learned Brahmin to perform a yagna to worship Lord Shiva, but could not find one. Vibhishana, the younger brother of Ravana, suggested that Rama send a message to Ravana as he was a learned Brahmin. It is said that Rama sent an invitation to Ravana and he not only accepted, but knowing that Rama could not perform the yagna without his wife, Ravana brought Sita Mata also along with him. After the yagna was performed when Rama and Sita sought his blessings, Ravana blessed Rama to be victorious and Sita to have a long married life. I don't know whether this is true or not, though.
As
we enter the main sanctum we find a huge Nandi over 15 ft. in height, in a
grilled enclosure. Ramalingam, made by Sita, is worshipped in the main sanctum
as Ramanathaswami. To the left, there is a separate shrine to Parvathavardini,
the consort of Ramanathaswami. The sanctum to Vishwalingam, brought by Hanuman,
is to the right. Worship to Vishwanathaswami is offered first. There is a
shrine to Goddess Vishalakshi also. Behind the main sanctum there is a shrine
to Lord Vishnu as Sethu Madhava, the
God of the Sethupatis, who ruled here. He is also considered the guardian of
the Sethu. There is a separate shrine
to Nataraja or the dancing Shiva, decorated with rudrakshams and surrounded by
offerings of Naga images.
It
is said that only a structure with a thatched roof existed over the sanctum for
a long time until the 12th century. Most of the pillars and designed
structures were built by the Sethupati rulers of Ramanathapuram between the 12th
and 16th centuries. The world famous third prakaram was built as recently as the 18th century by
Muthuramalinga Sethupati.
Inscription describing the dimensions of the third prakaram built by Muthuramalinga Setupathi |
We heard that
renovation of the inner prakarams took place in the 20th century and
further work may be undertaken to finish construction of the unfinished North
and South towers or gopurams.
The
importance of the temple is enhanced by the fact that the shrine of
Ramanathaswami is one of the 12 sacred Jyothirlingas.
Apart from the usual special darshan and
abhishek, we were fortunate to have a
darshan of the Spatikalingam pooja conducted only early in the morning. Our minds
purified and our souls satiated, we reluctantly left the temple premises,
promising ourselves to make a visit again whenever possible.
Some important information: The temple is open from 5.00am to 1.00pm and 3.30pm to 9.00pm. The
Spatikalingam pooja is held at 5.00 am daily. Special entry tickets of Rs. 50/-
per person, are available for all the other poojas. There is a token fee for Ganga
jal abhishekam, which is very important for people who are coming to
Rameshwaram as a part of the Kashi Yatra. Ganga jal is also
available at the temple for a charge of Rs. 50/- per litre. If you happen to
visit on a Friday, you can see the procession of the Goddess Parvathavardini in
a golden palanquin at around 7.00 pm.
The
most important festivals are Shivaratri (Feb-March), the Thirukalyanam
or wedding celebration of Lord Ramanathaswami with Goddess Parvathavardini in
(July-August).
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