A chance remark about Maheshwar being the precious gem on the
course of the river Narmada made us to take a detour from the usual Ujjain and
Omkareshwar trips that we undertake when we visit Indore. And what a wonderful decision
it turned out to be!
We started at around 6.00 am from Indore stocking up a few
bites for breakfast as we did not want to waste time on wayside inns. Verdant
green corn fields whizzed past providing a visual feast to our famished urban
eyes as the car sped along the smooth highway. We reached our destination, the
ancient town of Maheshwar, much before
we had expected to, at around 9.00am.
I had read about Maheshwar having a mention in our ancient
scriptures of Ramayana and Mahabharata as the land of Mahishmati. Yes! The same Mahishmati that is depicted in the
epic film Bahubali! It was said to be a part of Avantika or Ujjain and dates
back around 4000 years. My romance with this quaint little town began with my
first step on its soil. It was as if history, mythology and nature had merged
to form a mesmerizing picture of a majestic fort juxtaposed against the deep
blue waters of the sacred Narmada. The river is undoubtedly the fulcrum of
existence in this ancient town, giving shape to its spiritual and cultural
landscape.
Our guide, Dileep Sharma, a young local
man, who had been referred by my friend at Indore, was waiting for us at the
entrance of Ahilya Fort. He greeted us
in English with hands folded in a namastey gesture, but was quite happy to know
that we were fluent in Hindi. He explained that part of the ancient fort had been restored and converted into a hotel
by Richard Holkar, a direct descendent of the great Queen Ahilyabai Holkar of
Indore. Staying in the Ahilya Fort as the hotel is called, gives one the exalted
experience of staying with royalty. All the rooms are unique and tastefully
decorated overlooking the glistening waters of the Narmada and providing a
romantic touch to your stay. There are patios and terraces in the courtyard
where one can relax with a book or just enjoy the scene at the river below. The residents at the Ahilya Fort have been
offered exclusivity and privacy from the curious eyes of tourists as the hotel
part of the fort has been walled up.
Our guide led us to the huge statue of the
revered Maharani Ahilyabai (1767-1795) occupying the pride of place in the
midst of a garden.
He then guided us through the Rajwada, her erstwhile administrative
quarters. It was fascinating to see the
various chhatris and the royal
artifacts preserved in good condition, but my attention was drawn to the
cushioned seat from where the queen had ruled and delivered judgements with a
Shivaling in her hand.
Even today, she is spoken of with the
respect and reverence accorded to a deity, as her rule after the tragic death
of her husband and son had been marked by the undoing of the damage done to
Hindu places of worship by Aurangazeb. I saw a board displaying the list of
temples restored by her and they included the holiest of shrines like the Kashi
Vishwanath Mandir at Varanasi and the Somnath Jyotirling. The innate simplicity of the Rajwada is
symbolic of the simplicity of the queen who ruled here. It was Devi Ahilyabai who
shifted the capital of Malwa from Indore to Maheshwar. Sharmaji also showed us
the palki in which the image of Ahilyabai is carried out in procession on
specific days.
Walking down the stairs from the fort, we
were mesmerized by the sight of the beautiful temple to Ahilyeshwar built in
grey stone.
Our guide wanted us to see the unique
daily Shivaling puja conducted every day between 8am and 10am in the morning
and fortunately we made it in time to
see the latter part. I did not count the
number but a few Brahmins were making hundreds of Shivalingas, worshipping them
and then offering them to the Narmada. Sharmaji told us that this was a
practice continued right from the days of Ahilyabai when 108 Brahmins used to
make 125000 small Shivalingas every day. Now there are 11 Brahmins making 15000
Shivalingas. We were also shown a room
adjacent to the temple, where a golden swing and some precious Shivalingas are
displayed (no photos allowed). There is a shrine to Lord Rama, Sita and
Lakshman in the fort, opposite to which is located a separate shrine to Lord
Hanuman.
We then walked up towards the famous
Rajarajeshwara temple complex where 11 lamps are presumed to be burning since
pre-historic times. Called Akhanda Jyoth,
these lamps are kept burning as devotees offer donations for the ghee
used in the lamps lit in honor of Lord Agni.
We heard an interesting story
about Agnidev falling in love with the beautiful daughter of King Nila, which
was reciprocated by her. The King’s sacred fire would burn only when she
breathed air into it. While Agnidev took the form of a brahmin and courted her,
the King caught them and rejected their love match. Agnidev got furious and
threatened to burn down the entire Nishada kingdom. Realizing his true form,
the King fell at his feet and begged forgiveness. He also requested the fire
God to bless his kingdom. Agnidev agreed albeit with a condition that couples
in pure love should not be frowned upon. It is said the women of Mahishmati
enjoyed much more freedom as compared to other places.
A small shrine to Sahastraarjun, the
powerful emperor who imprisoned the king of Lanka, Raavana, for many months, is
present in this temple complex.
The beautiful Kashi Vishwanath temple has
been built as a replica of the original temple at Varanasi.
Later Sharmaji led us down the spectacular
fan shaped stairs to the clean Ghats on the Narmada riverfront. Nothing
actually prepares you for the majestic view of the historic fortress provided a
stunning backdrop to the glistening river.
Narmada, believed to be born of a drop of
sweat from Lord Shiva’s forehead, is sacred, as scared as the Ganga or Yamuna.
She also goes by the name of Shankari.
It is said that ‘you are purified and released from all your sins if you
bathe in the Ganga but the very sight of Narmada will purify you.’
No wonder
then that we see devotees doing the parikrama
of this sacred river either by foot or by car.
As it was almost noon when we reached the
Ghats, the golden hued rays of the sun created a beautiful shimmering setting
for our boat ride on the Narmada. There was a group of four apart from us in
the boat heading towards the Baneshwar Mandir located in the middle of the
river. Even as our boat moved at a slow pace, we could feast our eyes on the
panoramic view of the magnificent riverfront with intermittent sightings of
pilgrims feeding fish, taking a dip or chanting to the beat of clanging bells.
Sharmaji enlightened us with information about the four main Ghats, the Ahilya
Ghat, Peshwa Ghat, Mahila Ghat and the Phanse Ghat, among the 28 Ghats on the Narmada. He told us
about the small rounded stones called Banalingas
found at the base of the river, which are taken home by devotees for daily
worship.
As we approached the Baneshwar Mandir, the
boat slowly came to a halt. Climbing a few stone steps, we entered the
precincts of the sacred shrine.
The tranquility in this shrine is so conducive
to meditation and prayer that we were induced to spend more time here. The lone
priest mentioned that the temple is believed to be located on the axis
connecting the North Pole to the centre of the earth. We were more relaxed
during the ride back, focusing our views on the multitude of temples on the riverfront
with their signature saffron flags flying gently in the breeze.
On
our way back from the Ghats it was time to pay a visit to the Rehwa Society,
the weaver’s co-operative, run by the Holkar family. The workshop is in the
fort itself to the left as you go down to the river from the Rajwada. The clatter
of the looms accompanied the rhythmic movement of hands at work as the famous
Maheshwari saris were being woven. The men in the office were kind enough to
give us a glimpse into the history behind the weaving industry in Maheshwar. Maharani Ahilyabai had invited weaver communities from
nearby Mandu to teach her people the craft of weaving in order to provide them
with a source of living. She gifted the beautiful, light textiles that were
created by the weavers to all visiting royal dignitaries. The craft slowly
found royal patronage and the handloom weaving tradition in Maheshwar began to
thrive.
The stuff at the Rehwa Society is absolutely
authentic and you can definitely buy shawls, stoles and saris from them though
they are expensive. Further down the stairs, there is another shop Bhagyshree
Handloom handling production and sales of authentic Maheshwari handlooms since
many decades.
The proprietor, Golu
Shilodre, was quite happy to show me a variety of saris and I could not resist
the temptation of buying a few. In addition, there are many shops in the market
area showcasing these beautiful Maheshwari handlooms.
The beauty of this historic town has
attracted more than forty film makers for shooting parts of their films at this
picturesque location.
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